Guernsey Day 5 - Back in time

If you have ever though that maybe you'd like to live in the past, then try Sark.  The "Sark Venture" was waiting for us as we queued on the dock.  Tickets for the outward journey, up and down on the 'toast rack', and the return journey, had been carefully distributed by Alex, our guide, while we were still in the hotel lobby.  He had carefully given one pack to each person (refusing to give two packs to one of a couple).  Nevertheless, as we were about to board one lady could not find her ticket, and did not remember receiving one.  He gave her his tickets and set off to buy replacements.  While we were sitting inside the boat, she found them and another lady went and got him, so all's well ...

Off we went for the 60-minute crossing to Sark.  The sea was flat and calm, the drone of the diesel engine soporific, and was the close atmosphere inside the boat.   I didn't sleep, but it was a close thing. 

Climbing up the hill after docking didn't do much to bring life back to me, the walking was slower than I would have liked.  A little way up is a café and tractors pulling the 'toast racks' to take you up the long steep hill on to the island proper - which is pretty flat.  As you can see from the picture, there are no chains or bars to keep you in your seats.  I was sat on the edge, it was a bouncy ride with a few twists and turns.  Plenty of adrenaline now as I slide on the plastic seat a few times.

Once on the island, we wandered up the main road.  There are no cars, but there are tractors, and electric bikes, pedal bikes and horses and carts.  Walking on the roads is not safe.  Indeed, health and safety seems not to be a feature of Sark.  We saw women riding on the mud guards of tractors, two people on a bike, all sorts of weaving in and out as one person tried to get past another.

A lady had kindly moved to allow us to sit on the seat by the side of the road.  She had been a resident of Sark for three years, originally visiting as a tourist and falling in love with the island.  Following a road accident, she decided that life was too short not to do what she wanted and moved.  A courageous decision, considering there is no NHS on Sark.  Health care is provided by insurance.  We had just a little time to kill before the horse and cart tour of the island.  We visited the post office (and general store, hardware store and garden centre), where we bought ice cream, and some metal measuring spoons. Then visited the Tourist Information office for about 10 minutes. 

Then it was time to climb up on the cart and be led around the island by the horse.  Our guide told us stories of the original old houses and the families that were the first residents. Anyone can live on Sark, if they can afford it.  There are no taxes, no road maintenance, limited schools, and a general consensus that the government is not looking after the island as it should.

Generators are required in some places because one owner decide he didn't want cables crossing his land, so those beyond it cannot have mains electricity.  

The tour returned us to the top of the main road up from the port.  We spent a little while in a café with some of our fellow travellers, then it was back on the 'toast rack' for an even hairier journey back down the hill.

The crossing back to St. Peter Port was as smooth as the outgoing journey.

In the evening, we visited the town church and looked at the only one of its windows to survive the war. We had dinner at the 'Ship and Crown'.  Up the long flight of steps to the first floor, where there is a very wide window providing amazing views of the port.  The fish and chips here was lovely, but also quite expensive.  That's partly the location, but also the in line with prices on Guernsey in general.