Thursday, March 26, 2015

Washington Day 6 - Death

Switching on the TV we hear that an A320 has crashed in the mountains in southeastern France, after a very quick descent. No survivors are expected.  Our thoughts are with the families of the victims of this tragedy.  In a strange way it sets the somber tone for the day.

Our first stop is Reagan Airport to change the car. The girl on the desk is very helpful, but the manager is in hiding. She offers us a smaller car, but that would cause problems getting to the airport on Saturday as there will not be sufficient space in the boot (trunk), her manager is adamant that a larger car will not be provided. It is this sort of attitude that will give the company a bad name. Fortunately, another Impala has just been returned, so after a short wait we are given that. The fuel fill up on the old one is waived, and the drop off location changed for free to Dulles. There is the promise that the fuel fill up at Dulles will not be charged. Not too bad a deal.
From 'Advantage' we head to the Arlington National Cemetery. Like so many other places we have and will visit in Washington, our impression has been formed by TV and film. I expected the cemetery to be flat, it is not, it is the hilliest place we have been.  The rows and rows of white stones neatly laid out in ranks and columns follow the contours of the landscape, so that the dead are as neat and tidy as the living when they first marched off the training ground. The intervening horrors remain unspoken, only their sacrifice is remembered - that they gave their life in the service of their country.
Not all the dead at Arlington died in battle, some served their country, or in a few cases their allies, and lived on into retirement.
One British officer is honoured with a statue of him sitting on a horse - for services rendered to both the British and American high commands in WWII, because he was instrumental in helping them work together to achieve their goal. It occurred to me that Americans are normally very determined to get their own way, but will also honour people who help them not to.
We visited the tomb of the unknown soldier, and I just missed the changing of the guard. It is a grand amphitheater in white marble, with seating for hundreds. Then we walked across to the next hill, to the J F Kennedy memorial, a much simpler affair in light grey granite, with an eternal flame. I understand the appeal of Kennedys for my generation - his assassination ended an era of innocence and hope, but I wonder what he means, if anything, in a post 9/11 world. 
From Arlington we traveled to Ted's Montana Grill in Ballston, to sample Bison. With lower cholesterol than beef it is a red meat that I can eat. The meal was delicious, the meat has a gentle meaty flavor that brings you back for more, it is tender and has an even texture.  This was undoubtedly the best restaurant meal of the year so far.
Traveling back into Washington we arrived at the Iwo Jima memorial. The statue records the planting of a flag on the top of the hill, apparently it was staged for the famous picture. The battle is the equivalent of the Normandy landings in the Pacific Theatre - awful loss of life but a really important step that must be taken for there to be a final victory.
Next was the Korean War monument. Almost every thing I know about this war I learnt from MASH. There were some Koreans leaving flowers there. The monument consists of a number of troopers in full kit walking over small hedges. What makes this distinctly Korean, is their walkie-talkies, with very long arials. 
From the Korean we move on to the WWII monument. The contrast is immense. Now we have white marble, and each state is represented. The Atlantic and Pacific campaigns are listed at each end of an oval pool with fountains also close to each end. A wall of golden stars represents the dead. 
Finally we take a short detour to visit the Martin Luther King Jr. Memorial, and listen to a teacher explaining why it is like it is. Martin wanted some words which his family decided made him sound pompous, so even in death he did not get what he wanted.

We went to tea with Bobby and Crystal at the Dogfish Head craft brewed ales company. I ordered Chicken and chips, and made a bad choice. The chicken was dry, the beer however - Raison d'etre, a dark beer was very good.

The day left me pondering the need for war, sometimes it is obvious, many times it is not, and once started must be played out to its logical (or illogical) conclusion. I was also pondering my likely reactions and responses to my sons or grandsons being involved in future wars, my response at the time, should it occur will no doubt surprise me, for now it is simply dread.

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