Brownsea Island is a large island in Poole harbour. It is mostly owned by the National Trust, although the church is still the property of the Church of England and the castle is leased by the John Lewis Partnership. The promised rain had arrived at the predicted time and had washed much of the tree sap off the car, but the windows were still filthy. Since the rain had stopped, the day was beginning to warm, and it felt strange using the scraper to get the film of sap and rain off the windows. We drove to Sandbanks and parked on the side of the road a little short of the toll booth. For foot passengers, the toll is £1 and is only charged coming in the other direction. So we boarded the chain ferry and experienced the incredibly loud noise it makes close up. At the other side, it is a 1-minute walk to the toll booth for the Brownsea Island ferry, so we soon had our tickets and were aboard the second ferry for the day. Eight minutes later we were on Brownsea. The name relates to the shape of the Island, with 'sea' being a recent change to the ending to distinguish it from other names in the locality.
Being a NT property, no dogs are allowed, so this is the main thing we could not have done had Brody been with us. Once again, I was struck (put off) by the NT business model. The entry price is £6.00, but they ask for £6.60 as the gift-aided price, and then ask you to gift aid it. So I pay 10% more and the government contributes. Yes, I know the theory, but my tax does not work like that, my gift aid allowance is estimated, and as my giving is at a reasonable level this one transaction will not figure in the calculation.
To calm me down we stopped for tea in the café, it also served as a better way of waiting for the guided tour which was not due to start for a while. The guide did a great job, and then we were left on our own to explore. We decided to lunch first, so back to the café. Lunch was good, NT cafés usually serve good food in my experience.
Next it was out to the woods on a red squirrel hunt. We saw lots of red squirrels. I have lots of pictures, mostly of blurred black/red tails, which is the most noticeable part, I haven't checked yet to see if there are any really good ones, though I doubt it - they just don't stay still long enough. There is a healthy population on Brownsea because there are no: grey squirrels, foxes, cats or dogs.
Brownsea has had many uses over the last couple of centuries, at one point houses were built for clay miners, and they were later used by daffodil farmers. They are at the opposite end of the island to the ferry terminal (quay side) so as Jo's knee is hurting we split up. What a disappointment. The houses were demolished in controlled explosions in the 1960s (when the NT took over) - because they were deemed to be unsafe. Heritage destroyed by those entrusted to save it. Now they get really excited about a galvanized toilet liner!
After tea and cake, we made our way back to the hotel, then after a short break headed into town for our last-night meal. Swanage has many places that look interesting and inviting. The one I had seen a couple of times was closed, so we wandered round a bit and found Tawneys. It hadn't been on the list, from the outside it is rather drab, and looks empty - usually a sign that it is not popular. The menu looked good, though, and we didn't want to turn around and walk any further. Inside the table-tops are supported on old sowing machines - treadles still in place and working, there is modern art on the walls and sofas at the back for the 'wine bar' area. The food however is excellent, and so is the service - we both enjoyed our meal.
The walk back to the hotel was the first we had done in the dark. Swanage has lights put up along the same lines as other seaside towns (e.g. Southend), but here they are not switched on. It was a lovely still, warm evening and the walk back was very pleasant, with the sound of the sea and the contrasting blackness to the shops and street lights. Too early still for the 'night-life' to have got going.
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